Plants want to grow, but there are a few things you can do to help them along. Here are Our Tried and True Tips:

Transplanting

Sally Transplants Basil Seedlings.

Sally Transplants Basil Seedlings.

  • Transplant at the end of the day and water in; or transplant during a cloudy or rainy day. Disturb root systems as little as possible, placing plant gently in soil and firming root ball in.

  • Transplant to a healthy, fertile garden soil and use compost if at all possible. Compost retains moisture in sandy soils and impedes water-logging in poorly drained soils. Compost is full of microorganisms necessary for healthy soil and healthy plants. For garden analysis, inexpensive soil tests are available from the Extension service.

  • Raised beds warm up faster, provide lots of growing depth, and good drainage for air and water.

  • Protect frost sensitive plants (basil, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, marigolds, cosmos, zinnias and more) from temperatures below 33˚F by using floating row covers, or tarps, sheets or plastic.  Our frost free season usually starts the end of May and lasts until the beginning/middle of September but varies by zone. Row covers may be used to provide earlier and better yields. Frost hardy plants (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, artichokes, onions, leeks, some herbs, sweet peas, perennials…) also benefit from the use of row covers, but are usually transplanted outside unprotected. Before planting seedlings out, it is best to harden them off by moving them gradually from inside to cold-frames or outdoors, where wind and rain strengthen the tops. Many plants can withstand a hard freeze, such as onions and lettuce.

  • Space plants far enough apart so that when they are full grown they are not crowded.

  • Most plants prefer full sun. Ask us which plants are candidates for shady areas.

  • Keep weeds under control. Plants thrive with less competition from weeds for light, water, and nutrients.

Growing Tomatoes

Tomatoes in the Greenhouse

Tomatoes in the Greenhouse

  • The hairs on the stem will develop into roots, so prune off lower leaves and bury them deep (or lay them on their side in a trench and bend the growing tip up above the soil).

  • Prune off any open flowers at time of transplanting; generally, it is preferable to transplant any plant before it flowers.

  • Row covers and plastic mulch will provide earlier and heavier yields. Keep plants off the ground for better air circulation to aid in disease control.

  • Some gardeners prune suckers to get earlier fruit.

  • Determinate varieties stop growing taller by themselves, while indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing like Jack’s beanstalk - pruning the top of the plant will keep it from going through the clouds.

growing Cukes & Squash

Cukes and Squash are a little fussy when it comes to transplanting, here are some pointers for best results:

  • Do Not separate multiple plants from a pot. Gently tap the root ball from the pot, plant in the garden soil and water in. 

  • You can plant in a mound of soil or ‘hill.’ If you have too many plants in a hill, clip off any unwanted stems with scissors. Cukes and winter squash can have 4 plants/hill, zucchini and summer squash are best with 1-2 plants per hill.

  • Transplant at the end of the day or on a cloudy/rainy day (not on the morning of a sunny day). Cukes and squash (eggplants, peppers & tomatoes too) like mild nights, so try to transplant during a warm spell. Cover with a sheet or row cover if frost is predicted.

  • If striped cuke beetles are an issue, try spraying with kaolin clay (brand name Surround) on the leaves, or exclude the beetles with a row cover. Row cover is most effective when set before pests have found the plants.

For more helpful growing tips, check out our blog, News from the Farm!

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